6 weeks down...

I wish 6 weeks during the school year could go as fast as the 6 weeks I just had!

We spent the last 3 nights in Ios at another camp site.  This was was high class compared to the one we stayed in in Mykonos.  Our bungalow had a fan!!!  I don't know what I'm going to do with myself once I get air conditioning.  Probably freeze to death! Ios is nice, it finally has beaches with real sand!  There's not much on this island besides bars, so we sat mainly sat by the pool most of the day, and headed out at night (or the wee hours of the morning).  A lot of Aussies work on the island, I find it quite ironic that I'm in Greece and surrounded by Australians.  I think I've probably learned more about their culture now than I did when I was studying there. 

We're leaving today on a ferry for Athens.  Spending one night there, speed touring tomorrow, as our plane leaves Athens around 6 pm.  Some girls from my Croatia cruise I ran into at Mykonos and was telling me that she got into Athens the day after me, and wasn't able to leave the airport because the taxi drivers were on strike and she wouldn't be able to get back in to catch her next flight out.  We also got word in Santorini that the Ferry boats were striking and causing peoples ferry's to be super late.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that everything runs smoothly for us over the next 36 hours while we're still in Greece.

Our next stop (and my final) is Italy.  We're taking a 3-day tour of the western coast, then a couple days in Rome (not enough time I'm sure!)  Then, finally home again August 3rd!  See everyone soon!

in LOVE with Santorini

So yesterday we arrived and didn't do too much.  Layed by the pool most of the day, walked down to the shops that are by our place, saw the beach with the black volcanic ash shore.  It was nice.

Today, I believe, has topped the Lycian Trail in Turkey as my favorite day so far.  We wanted to rent vehicles for the day so we could explore the island.  After seeing tons of people with road rash up and down their arms and legs and hearing scooter stories, we decided that 4 wheels were better than 2, and went for the ATVs.  It was the best 25 euro I spent so far!  Don't worry Mom, I wore my helmet all day :).  The first thing we did was dropoff our laundry.  Yes, I've only done proper laundry twice since I've been away, things are beyond dirty at this point; but like I've said, our standards are lower when you're living out of the one bag on your back.  My beach towel is as stiff as a board with all the salt that it has soaked up from weeks of swimming, but I still have a shirt to put on my back every day, so life is good. 

Then we headed up to Pirgos.  The highest point on the island that you can see the entire thing from, as well as the volcano next to it and other nearby islands.  It was a bit scary climbing up (well putzing really on my little 50 cc's ) while on the edge of a cliff and busses passing by, but we made it to the top for some great views!  We then headed to the capital of the island, Fira, for some sight seeing and some shopping.  It was PACKED with tourists, and made me glad to be on the quite side of the island. 

My father has spoiled me with nice jewelry for too long!!  I'm blaming today's shopping spree on you, Dad!  I broke the budget big time and bought myself a nice necklace.  I figure that my favorite piece of jewelry is the cameo that Boppa bought for Nana when he was in Italy during his service, that my dad had turned into necklaces for me, my mom, sister, aunts and niece.  So maybe my jewelry will last longer than me and still be loved, too.

We then cruised around the island a bit more, taking in the beautiful views.  We headed to the Red Beach, and a lighthouse with amazing views on the east side of the island.  After a bit more riding around, and some lounging by the pool, we had dinner with a view and watched the beautiful sunset.  Meg told me before I left, make sure you don't miss sunset, it's an event! And she was right!  We all agreed that today was a GREAT day.  And tomorrow we're touring from 10a-10p, so it's bound to be another great one, too.  Especially now with clean clothes :).

"Athens is ugly"

This is what I texted Marnie from the next bed in our hotel room when we got there.  Before I left, Meg told me that Athen's was not going to be my favorite spot, and she was right.  To give it some credit, I have only seen the city through a bus window from the airport to the port, but there's lots of a graffiti, and trash everywhere.  Big buildings that aren't nice to look at, and then the occasional pretty church. We'll do some more touristy things once we're done in the Greek Islands in Athens, so I hope that will make my opinion of it better.

The girls had quite the eventful traveling day trying to get to Athens, with a layover, a late plane, super long lines, and nearly missing their connecting.  Mine was a direct flight, quite peaceful, and it wasn't on a budget airline, so I even got a free drink and snack, leg room, and the ability to recline.  It was a great flight!!  Trying to find our hotel, with an address written in English, and all street signs written in Greek was a bit of a challenge.  After walking around with our giant packs for 45 minutes, we decided to just get a cab.  It took a couple cab drivers before they also knew where our hotel was, and he literally drove us about 4 blocks, but it was worth the 5 euro, especially since it was getting dark.

In the morning we caught our ferry to Mykonos.  Mykonos puts Dewey Beach to shame as a party town. It's insane, and we were staying at Paradise Beach, in the center of it all, with people coming and going at every hour.  3 nights there was more than enough.  I think I'm getting too old for this!  The bathrooms and showers were shared, and disgusting to say the least.  Oh, and I left one of my shower shoes in Croatia, so my Rainbows would just get wet!  We stayed in bungalows that had no AC, but did have electricity. I think my room is also located inside a mosquito's nest.  I am COVERED in bug bites and they are not fun!!

It took about a month, but I finally ran into someone I knew!!  I was eating breakfast on the beach one morning, people watching.  And I see someone with a Delaware Basketball t-shirt on.  I could hardly believe it!!  Then I realized I recognized him, and looked to the girl behind him and saw that it was a girl that was in my major at school.  They were on their honeymoon and only in town for the day.  Small world!!!

The islands are more like the Greece you picture.  The little white houses with blue shutters and doors.  They remind me of Nana and Boppa's house.  The streets are narrow and people are riding little scooters through them.  We arrived in Santorini this morning after a not so fun boat ride.  The little boy in front of us didn't find it fun either.  Thank god for an iPod today!  Santorini is a quite little island with black volcanic ash beaches.  Our place is beautiful!  We're laying by the pool and relaxing now and are going to do some exploring over the next couple of days.

I'm on a boat

The Croatian Cruise has come to an end.  I was able to do a bit of sight-seeing, and we have an extra night in Dubrovnik now before we're off to the Greek Islands.  I didn't keep the best journal while I was here, in spite of having nothing but free time, but here are some highlights.

As an overview, I am (again) the only American.  I think I'll be eligible for my Australian passport here soon!  All Aussies, a few Kiwi's, and a guy from Switzerland (Casper-hah).  The bed is barely big enough for my 5 foot 6 inches, and the entire room, with the Wash Closet is about the size of my master bath at home, a bit smaller, actually.  The bathroom smells so badly, that there are no words for it.  The showerhead is removable and located directly in between the sink and the toilet, with less than a foot of space between.  Airflow is minimal, so we keep our door open everynight.  And somehow, we were lucky enough to always be in the position at port to allow the first rays of sunshine (and heat) to entire our room first.  But, apparently it's worse in the cabins underneath the deck.  Most of the people staying there, bring all of their things out at night and find space to sleep on rafts, etc throughout the deck.  Less than ideal living conditions, especially compared to some of the boats we walked through at the ports, but our boat (Ika) had a lot of character, and it makes for good stories. :)  Every morning, we set sail from one island to the next, stopping a few times in the middle of the open waters to swim.  Not a whole lot of productivity going on.  Laziness breeds laziness, I suppose that's why my journal wasn't done.  And doing nothing all day made me a bit tired, but it was great.

Through the cruise we docked at the cities of Split, Omis, Bvac, Mokorska, Vis, Kazula, Mijet, Dubrovnik 

7/9 Day 1: Split-Omis-Pucsica

Our boat had to wait a while for a woman.  Her first flight ended up being late, and she missed all of her connectings which was in no way convienent, and her luggage was lost to top it all off.  But, she was not too upset about it, happens that her family is Croatian, spoke the language, making things, I'm sure, much less stressful than they could have been.  Stopped briefly at Omis then an overnight in Pucsica. Quaint and quiet little island.  They get the stones for building the White House from here.  At least that's what I understood our tour guide to say.  A little drinking Uno on Marnie's boat, the Plomin, and a bar for a bit, but a pretty quiet night all together.

7/10 Day 2: Pucsica-Makarska

It's tough sleeping in the cramped quarters, but I didn't mind it too much, getting up in time for breakfast, and sitting in the front of the boat in the sun, with the breeze of the boat in the water before it got too hot.  Met up with Marnie, Sally, her sister Rachael, and her bf Chris for a little seafood dinner, then headed back to my boat for Happy Hour.  Rave in a Cave was the main attraction here.  I found it a bit over-rated, but the concept was cool.  A cave from an old war site was turned into a bar.

7/11 Day 3: Makarska-Hvar

Hvar is the island of Lavendar (Thought of you Meg and Nicole and wishing we saw the Lavendar fields!!).  It's also one of the top 10 islands in the world.  There's a fortress there that I hiked up to that had  AMAZING views of the city.  At one point (Ican't remember the dates, but my dad always said they weren't that important anyhow) it was used to protect the citizens from attacks on their city.  It was the only part of the city to survive.  Unfortunately, a few years after that, the gun powder room of the castle was struck by lightening, and it was destroyed.  What luck!!  It had GREAT views, and a museum of the jail in the castle and things found from nearby shipwrecks.  I also met a couple there from DC, so chatted with them for a bit.  It was well worth the sweaty hike up the mountain, and the slippery slope in my thread bare sandals on the way down.  Dinner and out with my boat.


7/12 Day 4: Hvar-Vis

Stopped for a swim stop and a day trip today.  We were ferried across to the island to check out the Blue Cave.  About that, people in Croatia apparently don't believe in lines or any sort of fair system to do things so despite waiting in a blob for over an hour in the hot sun, with no regards as to who got their or bout their tickets first or anything.  After over an hour in the hot sun with no shade of pushing and fighting and trying to get on a boat into the Blue Cave, we decided to turn our tickets in and call it a day. The first mate on our boat, Igor (yes-the name is great!), was going to just take us back to the boat in the dingy. He decided first that we would try to go in ourselves, with success. Getting into the cave required good timing, making sure the tide was low enough for our boat to fit under, as well as all of us ducking so that we didn't get hit by the rocks on the way in. Once we were in, we were put to work, unlike the others in the guided boats (good thing I've had practice on The Storm Runner). We had to make sure our little dingy, with intertube sides, didn't hit the rocks in the cave, and had to navigate the narrow ways with the other bigger boats.  Igor decided to do some donuts in the cave, but got yelled at to turn off his motor inside, so he gave 2 of us oars and put us to work (good thing I've had practice canoeing down the Brandywine)!  It was beautiful inside the cave.  Darkness everywhere, as you would imagine a cave to be, with unreal light coming from the bottom to show off the beautiful blue of the water inside, my pictures don't do it justice. I'm glad we went in, and I really liked doing it with Igor and the other 3 girls, made for more of an adveture. :)

Heaps of shipwrecks (6 I think) in the port of Vis and the town is adorable, with quaint little streets that aren't big enough for cars.  And houses that are plain in color, but then brightened up with their vibrant shutters and doors, my favorite!  Loved it!  A quiet night on the boat that night, sitting on the deck and chatting with everyone.  It even got a little chilly.

7/13 Vis-Korcula

This is where the explorer Marco Polo was from, so almost everything here is all about him.  It's apparently famous for it's pizza (a lot of Italian influence here).  After dinner, we climbed to the top of a castel tower (had to climb up a proper ladder, I have no idea how the waiter's get drinks up there!) to watch the sunset.  It was a bit scary b/c there wasn't any railing really around the top, and it dropped down to the rocks below, but everyone was fine, and the view and sunset were great!  Went to Dos Locos after sunset (NOT the one on the Avenue, but it did make me thing ok home), along with every other boat in the port it seemed.  The place was PACKED with Aussies, but it was a good time still.

7/14 Korcula- Mljet

We woke up this morning with the news that 20 people died in Croatia yesterday due to the intense heat, so I kept mostly to the shade.  We made it to our destination, home to a National Park.  We walked around inside, not as much as I would have liked bc no one else wanted to hire a bike with me, but it was still really nice.  There's two lakes inside, that used to be fresh water, but then they built a canal from them to the sea, so now they're super salty like all their other water.  There was a small canal connecting the two lakes with a current that you could ride between, and was quite fun!  We also caught a ferry boat across the big lake to check out the church that was there.  Another quiet town, and a night hanging around on the boat. 

7/15 Mljet-Dubrovnik

Got a bit of a history lesson here.  I won't bore you with the details, you can do your own research, but at one point I heard "Croatia finally got their shit together and became their own nation", it made me laugh.  I think that's the first for any history lesson I've heard.  We were a bit off the beaten path so had to catch a bus to Old Town.  Old town has lots of shops, markets, restaurants, etc.  It's VERY hot inside because it's surrounded by walls, allowin no breeze to get in.  The walls, and some buildings at one point in time were destroyed by earth quakes and had to be rebuilt.  Some were also destroyed in the wars.  We went to a War Photograph museum that was incredible, for lack of a better word.  It's not a great word , in the sense that incredible makes me think of good things, and the pictures and this war was anything but good.  The thing that really hit home the most was that the war took place during my lifetime.  And the years they gave us in the description of these pictures were the years I was growing up, graduating high school, and living and nice safe life in smalltown USA.  Whereas, Igor (our first mate and a year older than I am) is telling us stories about how his family had to go into hiding for as long as 6 months at a time.  And he used to collect things and hide them under his bed, he told me the yellow granades were his favorite.  It's so scary to think about

We then walked the 2 km (I swear it was longer!) in the heat on top of the wall, around the town with increadible views of the city and the sea.  I was sweating from every pore by the end of our walk, but I'm glad that we did it!  Had a final dinner with the boat, then headed out with them.  Had some bucket drinks that I think the Rudder needs to catch on to, and one final night on the boat!!

7/16 Reunited with my Aussie crew, that were on the other Busabout boat the whole time.  One more night in Dubrovnik with them in a cute little apartment just outside Old Town with them.  Walked around town a bit more.  Saw some weddings going on, they came out into the streets for singing, dancing and drinking after the ceremony.  It looked like such fun!!  Tomorrow we're off to the Greek Islands!!

Croatia

Not so much internet access on a boat in the middle of the Adriatic Sea.

There's lots of reading (LOVE your Kindle Mom), sun-bathing (don't worry dad I'm all stocked with sun screen!), cat-napping, jumping off the boat, swimming around, more reading, more napping, and more sun (and some shade too).

We're not exploring as much as the islands as I thought we would, so I'm a little disappointed, but I've adjusted.

It's quite glorious.  And I'm handling it much better than I thought I would. :)

Blonde and Blonder

Ok so what started out as a great day, turned into quite the adventure!!

We arrived back to Istanbul on the over night bus early and in quite comfort, I actually had to be woken up!  So, we set up a shuttle to take us to the airport, relaxed in the morning and decided to catch the 12pm shuttle for our 4pm flight, what was the difference between sitting in the hotel room and sitting in the airport? and we would be sure not to miss our flight.  When we arrived at the airport, we breezed through security and went to check in.  Marnie pulled out her ticket to double check everything and we were at the WRONG airport.

In Marnie's defence, she had originally booked a flight out of that airport but it didnt give her enough time to get back from the overnight bus and to in airport for an international flight.

Oops! so now it was out to catch a cab (already over an hour in the wrong direction)  to our actual airport to take an hour flight that led us to a city we just left and then catch our flight to Basal Airport.  Basel airport is interesting, you can get to Germany, France, or Switzerland depending on the exit you take out.  Marnie had been telling me that our hotel was in Switzerland for days, bet we decided (just bc of our lucky day we were having to double check)  It was actually in France.  We had difficulties trying to actually locate it and the sun was setting quickly.  PLUS we had a 6am flight to catch the next day.

We finally made it there and set up transportation, and a wakeup call for the morning.  The first free shuttle out did not leave until 430, but you're supposed to be there 2 hours before for international.  The man at the desk said we'd be fine with the shuttle, but we decided not to risk it.  (We would have been fine with the shuttle)

Good news is, all of our flights were made, and we got to Croatia with everything we needed, and a good story, even if our pockets were a bit lighter.

"We're going to sleep well tonight"

This has been our on-going phrase throughout this entire trip.  Even on days that we are not off doing heaps of physical activity, commuting on busses, etc all day is TIRING.

After an entire day of traveling, on to our last stop on the Turkey tour!  When we arrive to Melrose's Hotel, we're greeted by an adorable pup with a collar on=safe to pet!! :), Mel offers to take us on an orientation walk around town, but everyone opts to lounge by the pool.  Mine and Marnie's hotel room has a double bed and 3 singles. And...it has a top sheet!!! WooHoo!  No more raw blankets.  We joked about sharing the double, but played musical beds when we couldn't figure how to change the settings on the air conditioning.

In the morning, we walked into "town" early but nothing was really open, and there wasn't a lot going on, so we instead went back, and lounged by the pool some more.  In the head of the afternoon, we headed to the one thing this town has to offer.  Pamakkale has hotsprings that have formed beautiful formations.  A Roman town used to be here, including the largest graveyard in Turkey.   People believed that these waters were healing waters, so came here to make themselves better.  Whereas the water is good for your skin, it can't cure cancer, so even though many people who were very sick arrived, over 1500 were not healed by the waters, died and were burried in this cemetary.  From the looks of the formations, they look more like giang glaciers than hot springs.  We got to walk down in the waters.  Then, returned to the hotel to await our dreaded evening (over-night bus take 2).  As we're sitting there, the guys working turn on some Turkish music, that is so fun!!  Even though I don't know the words, I can't help but want to dance.  Before I know it, they talk me into joining them in their dances (it didn't take them much...Who want's to dance??  I do!!)  Marnie may have captured video of this so stay tuned....

So here we are again, back on the over-night bus.  However, this time it feels like we are riding in luxury!!  There are no women beating their children next to us.  The seats actually recline, and have cushioned head rests (in case your handy-dandy last minute purchase of a rolled-up pillow gets used on every ride by your snoozing seat-mate).  Free Wifi is available, along with a screen in front for movies and games.  I'm already having better feelings towards this ride than the last!!  Even though we've only been riding for about an hour and just stopped for a 30 minute break.  Maybe this is why the bus rides take so long!!

This time tomorrow we'll be staying the night in Switzerland, before heading to Split, Croatia to start our cruise and do something I'm not very good at...relaxing.  I'll let you know how it goes!  :)

This is not your mom's bike ride at the beach

So, I woke up the morning of the 5th with a note from my mother telling me about her busy day they were going to have that included a bike ride in Lewes.  Ah! I'm going on a bike ride today too, mom!  I'm sure they were no where near similar to each other

It was going to take us 1.5 hours to get to our mountain first.  We were going to ride a total of 40 km, 8 of which were uphill.  "It is fun" Mel says.  Well I first spent the entire bus ride trying NOT to vomit as we twisted and turned through the mountains.  The 13 and 14 year old on our trip, thought they would be so funny to get a picture of me sleeping (that's their thing...remind me again why I chose to be around this age group every day?!?!)  They were lucky I didn't get sick on them.  Or cause them any physical harm.

Up the mountain we started.  Dusty roads, beautiful views, and a bit of sweat and hard work but it wasn't all that bad.  I made it the first leg without having to walk at all.  When we made our first stop, I wasn't the first one there, but I wasn't the last, either. And I CERTAINLY wasn't on the bus getting a ride up.  I don't think you could have paid me enough!!! Not to mention my pride.  As soon as I reached the rest of the group, they asked, don't you want to hear the good news or the bad news?  I knew this wasn't going to be good.  8 km uphill turned into 18, and it was only going to get steeper.  I did a bit of walking on the second leg but I was still holding my own.  For the final leg, you could see our resting spot for our picnic lunch, but you could also see the steepness and the length of the road it took to get there.  This was going to hurt.  I walked most of the last leg, but I was proud of myself for not opting the bus ride to the top from our last stop.  I guess I should have been training a bit more after all.  I don't know why I couldn't fit that into my not-so-busy schedule. :)

After lunch, it was a lot of downhill which sounds more fun, but I'm glad we had the uphill first.  My bum was quite sore to ride the way down, and then my wrists got sore from trying to keep myself off the seat.  It was also at least 95 degrees for the entirety of this day, but it was fun none the less.

We had a bit more free time after this event before dinner, but all we wanted to do was lay.  So we did.  Marnie's glad that it was our last bit of scheduled activeness.  But, I must give her a lot of credit.  When she started complaining on our first hiking day, I told her she better get it all out now, we have a lot more activitites left.  She was "winge"-free for the rest of all of our activitites!!  Other's picked up where she left off though.

"Don't worry, we will burn something"

This is what Mel told me after our search for fourth of July fireworks came up empty handed.

I was sure I was going to be homesick on the 4th.  It's no surpirse that it's my favorite holiday!!  And I was already recieving emails titled "4th of July weekend" explaining all the fun things that would be going on without me at home.  I am in a group of Australians, and one Turkish man.  Turkish people are very proud of their country, flags are all over the place.  Whereas the Australians find this alien, as they have laws restricting them on how many flags can be in a certain area at a certain time, it reminds me of how proud Americans are, with flags all around, in shops, on cars, etc.  The entire time I was planning this trip, I was debating if I really wanted to miss the 4th of July.  I was sure my family would be on the beach, along with a million other people.  Dad would have PB&J's, Cheez itz, and frozen water bottles, so that you would be so thirsty all day but your assigned bottle would at least last the entire day.  The girls at work would be busy decorating themselves in red, white, and blue all day and night, and they would try to catch the fireworks on the beach from the Rudder office.  Flags and bunting would be everywhere you look.  And people that I haven't seen in the midst of our busy schedules, would flood to the beach, and we would be able to do quick beer shooters in celebration of America's birthday.

Today, the only spirit I had was a freebee flag some bank had given out, and a ribbon (duh).  I already told the Aussie's to get ready, and they were good sports, but they were lacking the enthusiasm and patriotism from home.

Today's agenda included sea kayaking over a sunken city.  Other American's were in our tour group.  Things were already looking up.  We kayaked to a little cove and heard the history and saw some ruins, then continued over the sunken city.  "It's not Atlantis.  Don't expect that", our guide told us.  We also had to keep moving the entire time.  The city has not been touched by archeologists, and it's illegal to snorkel or scuba dive there.  So, when the kayak of two Koreans knocked into and flipped over Mel's kayak, and he lost his designer sunglasses, they were goners, maybe to one day be found.  The sunken city had a lot of Greek influences (you can see a Greek island from Kas, they apparently have had a lot of influence on each other's architecture and foods, etc)  It was destroyed by an earthquake.  You can see on the island (that used to be a penninsula) where the buildings, etc were, and then they just ended, and you could see the other parts of those buildings in the waters below you.  This was an Lycian City (even though it was a 3 hour bus ride from our previous Lycian trail hiking spot).  The litte island that we stopped for at lunch was beautiful and had a castle on the top of the hill that previously was used as a look-out spot.  The two American girls and I were excited to have pasta salad on the lunch spread.  We looked for burgers and hotdogs, but there were a no-go. 

An old turkish lady trying to sell you things while swimming!

Swimming at some ruins

Get to work Marnie!!!

The other American's were a family from CA that did a house-swap with a Turkish family (I thought that only happened in the movies...??)  The dad had a solo kayak, and the mom and daughter were in one together.  American dad (As I took to calling him on this day)  was not very coordinated from the start, barely fitting into his kayak, and struggling in and out when he was still on land.  You can only imagine him in the water!!!  The first time he tipped out, mom and daughter were joking with me, saying they automatically clung togeher from the start, knowing he was going to be bad news, and giggling, and pretending not to know him when the group did have to wait for him to get in and settled again before moving on.  He had a good attitude about it, but he eventually did just come back to port in the little tug boat that had been following us around.  That was best for us all!!


Marnie and I lounged after lunch, finding shaded benches and just enjoyed the view before kayaking back to our launch spot, and riding in the big jeep back to town.  We then went down to the beach for drinks and lounging in chairs by the beach bar before heading to dinner.  After dinner, we went to a bar that Mel had pre-arranged with the owner that they would have sparklers for us.  So, there were still some sparkly celebrations after all!!!  We then enjoyed a couple drinks on our roof-top veranda before calling it a night.  All in all, this independence day was not a bust, and I was glad that I had others around to help me celebrate!  However, I'm still thinking a "4th of August...Everyday is Independence Day" BBQ is in order for when I arrive home!!

Shots at Queen Bar

Sparklers for Independence Day!!! :)

"Man, I can't wait to do laundry!"

These words actually came out of mine and Marnie's mouths. And were super sincere. 
We just spent 2 days hiking and camping out on the Lycian Trail.  We didn't shower, we wore the same clothes (actually, I think Marnie's socks were on day 5), we were sweating, swimming, dust was getting everywhere and we were beyond dirty.  And then we got on another bus for 3 hours.  Sorry for those of you around us.

When we arrived to our new hotel, in Kas, a shower was the first thing on out list, and laundry was a quick second.  Mel (our tour guide) told us that the hotel does laundry, 15 Turkish Lira per load.  Entirely too much for these backpackers that have shared every meal since day 2 of meeting to save money.  (If you check conversion rates, 15 Turkish Lira equals about 10 American dollars.)

So, we went on a hunt for hand washing laundry detergent.  And we found some, for 3.5 Turkish Lira.  A bargain!!!  And it is probably enough to keep our clothes clean for the rest of the summer.  OK maybe not exactly considering how dirty our socks were, but we are coming to a close on the active hiking portion of our trip.

That night after dinner, we set up an assembly line.  Marnie maned the suds in the sink (which didn't have a stopper so we used a plastic bag b/c we were again too cheap to buy a bucket).  I was in charge of then rinsing them out in the shower.  And by shower I mean hose.  There is nothing that seperates the shower from the rest of the bathroom.  The good news about this is that no nasty shower cushion will accidently touch you.  Then we set up a clothes line (Thanks to Marnie's mum's backpacking brilliance) for them to dry.  The lines were so heavy, we had to place our big packs on either chair so that they didn't collapse.  And water soaked the floor in spite of towels being layed underneath.  And it set up quite the boobie trap in our honeymoon suite (please note, we didn't bother to seperate our beds).  But we not have clean clothes and we are happy!!  And not so smelly!!

Half of the laundry on the line being held up by our big packs on either end, and the stool in the middle

Our beds are still togeher and it's now practically impossible to get out to the balcony!

Also, we gave extra suds and soaking to our socks, leaving them in overnight and scrubing them several times.  Don't worry, there's no way they're making the trip back to America!!!

"If you do anything dangerous, just don't tell me until afterwards please"

These were the last words of advice from my mother before she dropped be off at the airport.  I'll get to that part later, but first my favorite day thus far.

When we left Ephesus, we headed to Fatihye so that we could hike 14 km of the Lycian Way, to Butterfly Valley. After a dinner at the fish market.  Where you buy the fresh fish and take it to the restaurant of your choice, and they will cook it for you.  This was our most expensive meal to date, and sharing did not work in our favor tonight, but it was good still.

Fish Market!

The restaurant, with pretty lights in the tree.  This tree also doubled as an entrance for the stray cats.

We started our walk early in the morning, circa 7 am, which was nice because the sun wasn't too hot yet. By about 10 am, it was time for a break and some lunch. We first spotted, at the top of a hill by two little girls holding hands, and then running to our trail tour guide to say hello. We asked if they were his kids, but he told us they were the kids of the family we were going to for lunch. One of the girls grabbed his hand and walked in her sandals down the path, as we walked along the dirt road, catching ourselves from slipping on the gravel. They were pros. We stopped at a natural spring to fill our water bottles, and they grabbed a two liter bottle, filled it with water and carried it back home, chatting merrily with our tour guide as we walked. We went into the village for our homecooked meal. Village is a bit of a strech. This place had 9-10 houses and about 30-40 people living there. The tour used to stop a little further up for lunch in a different village, but this family was hurting for funds, and the other family already had someone with a job, so they moved the lunch location in order to help their neighbors out. We all sat around a large table as we watched the wife cook us up a tradtional Turkish pancakes. She kneeled on the ground rolling out bits of dough until they were big enough, stuffed them with herbs, and put them on top of their open fire grill. While she was cooking the girls were entertaining us with normal children antics, except that we weren't able to understand a word of it. Sometimes they would translate for us, but either way, you could tell they were happy kids. Once we finished eating, the wife asked if any of us wanted to try to cook one of the dishes. So, of course I gave it a shot! (In spite of breaking my 26 and a half year streak of not cooking). She was much better than I was, but it was still neat to try. As others in my group tried, I played with the little girls, who were fascinated with our long hair, hung all over us and laughed and laughed. It was really great to see a Turkish family and be invited to learn about them, even though they didn't really speak any English. It was also very inspiring to see how happy these little girls who had next to nothing were; it made me very thankful for everything I have.

Hassan and our official greeters

The girls collecting spring water.

Look mum im cooking for myself!

Me trying to cook...check out the "stove" in the background

She cooks much better than I do!

The little girl was infauated with everyone's hair, but her's was cut so short :(

They loved playing pattycake, even though they didn't understand a word of it

 

The beach that can only be reached by boat or by one path in which 3 ropes are needed to get down there

Beautiful hiking views!

hiking.

After lunch, we hiked a bit longer and finally made it to our hotel.  PS, we hiked the entire way with everything we needed on our backs.  We all cooled off and relaxed by the pool until it was time to shuttle back down to the bottom of the mountain we just climbed for a bit of paragliding over Olumediz beach.  AKA jumping off the mountain with a parachute (and a man) on your back.  We swam and layed on the super rocky beach while half of our group jumped first.  Parachutes filled the sky all day, and we were able to watch them come all the way down.  When they all landed, they talked about how great it was, so that calmed my nerves quite a bit, until I reached the launch site.  This was just a cobblestone patio (ok, a very large patio) that tilted down the mountain and then seemed to disappear into the canyon below.  I watched as my tandem guy helped everyone else get their chutes ready and they all floated off into the sky.  I was suddenly by myself at the top of the mountain and was being barked orders in broken English to help unwrap the parachute.  They are then strapping me up, telling me to run, and I'm floating away.  There was no jumping off the side.  The wind just caught the parachute and I was in the air, over the cliff and drifting through the mountains, to the sea and the beach below, as the sun is starting to set.  It was a beautiful and enjoyable ride.  Until I made the mistake of allowing him to spin me, one that I payed for dearly.  It got to the point that I had to snap at him for taking my pictures, that he would later try to sell me, telling him I couldn't look over there and smile, I could only look in front of me, unless he wanted me to get sick.  A beautiful sunset back atop the mountain and a homecooked meal did the trick for feeling better, and in our bungalows we stayed for overnight camping.

nervous.

Check out Mr. Smooky behind Marnie

Jumping off the 2000m cliff

The view as I was flying

Paragliding with this beautiful view!

Olumdeiz beach where I landed!

Our bungalow for the night!

The next morning we set out for more hiking.  This time we were physically climbing up onto and over rocks on a narrow path directly next to the cliff.  And it was still hotter than ever!  Oh well, for me, going up is better than going down!!  After about 2 hours of hiking we made it to Kabak beach.  The shore was just made up of big rocks, but the ocean was so clear and blue and beautiful!!!  The kids were jumping off of rocks into the water (as their mom's watched).  But, I was just pretending to be Ariel the little mermaid, and saying a prayer that no one was getting hurt.

A blurry lense

Under water

Marnie's rando piece of hair

Ariel

Floating!

Soaking up some sun

Happy Fourth to everyone!! (officially over here)  Hope the beach is warm, the beers are cold, Jam sesh is solid, and the flags are prevelant!! :) :) God Bless America!! :)

 beach Olumediz